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| | | New Member
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: 7/26/2003 10:54 PM
Posts: 1, Visits: 1 |
| My Sony Vaio laptop (2+ years old) case has been cracked for probably a good 6-9 months now if not longer. It is at the upper right side right at the hinge. The stress of opening and closing the screen has made a fairly large crack, and if it continues how it is it could crack clear thru.
I tried using seal-all a few months ago but that didn't work. I'm thinking of just using super glue next but I was wondering if anyone had any better suggestions first.
lemme know what you think. |
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Junior Member
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: 7/22/2006 10:55 AM
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| Duct tape. 
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Forum Advisor
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Last Login: 1/1/2004 11:06 AM
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| I take it that clearance is an issue. If not, I'd suggest an epoxy-based compound and bridge the crack gap with another slim strip of plastic.
If it is just the chassis or case/hinge, it might be possible to find a shop that might do 'chemical welds' on the plastic (if the body is plastic) but is a risky approach without disassembling the laptop and removing the vital components (LCD or TFT screen, other sensitive components, etc.).
Last option, a repair depot to have the case replaced by the manufacturer.
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New Member
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: 7/28/2003 11:05 AM
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| Check to see if you have a 3 year warranty. The reason why I say this is that I have a Dell and about 8 months after I bought my laptop, the keyboard just straight up stopped working. But Dell just had me send it in and they fixed it. I don't know if Sony does the same thing, but calling wouldn't hurt.
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"shoot to disable" |
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New Member
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Last Login: 8/2/2003 5:29 AM
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| Use the paste dentists use for artificial dents. I did it with my MAC and it's the best intervention I ever had. |
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Senior Member
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Last Login: 8/24/2006 7:13 PM
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| i would go with the epoxy myself also, over the stuper glue, depending on the type of plastic. stuper glue would work today, then fail later, it always does, and stuperglue is useless for filling, only good for 2 perfectally matched surfaces.
and i would also avoid that FAST epoxy, it doesnt work well at all, the slower epoxies are much stonger bond, and you can get a full mix of the 2 components and more working time. it might take longer for full bond (full 24 hours) but when unstressed for that full 24 hours its a good bond.
if its acrylics type of plastics i would use #16 acrylics glue, its a thick acrylic glue that will meld to the acrylic plastics and still fill well. acrylics glues will work on lots of todays plastics and solves the problem of the glue seperating from the surfaces because of the melding. of course it does melt to meld so a person should discover how to use it on some piece of scrap, and not pressure the plastic for the full 24 hours again.
if its ABS acrylic glue wont work, but there is a ABS melder also, if you cant get it in a thick compound, you can melt another scrap piece of ABS with it, and make a thick abs slop that will meld to the other abs.
tap plastics is a place to buy all them crasy plastic solvents and glues, they could also tell you in 2 seconds the type of plastic it is. and give much better tips for doing the work.
http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/category.php?bid=21&
any of the above the surfaces should be free of oils first. alcohol or ammonia cleaning would strip out any human oils that might lessen the bonds.
OK, so i am Guessing, but i try hard  |
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